Today's recommended wine
Chateau St. Jean, 2007 La Petite Etoile Fume Blanc Russian River Valley, $20
La Petite Etoile is a vineyard in the northern Russian River Valley that Chateau St. Jean first contracted with, then bought, to supply Sauvignon Blanc from a region where the grape does not typically flourish. In this spot of the valley, it's hot enough for the grapes and it's been a "little star" since 1978. The typical character of this wine is candied green tea. Sounds odd. But stuff your nose in the glass and inhale. You also get that intense, ripe tropical fruit of this region. At first sniff, you might think it was Pinot Gris. Still, it has the steep edge of acidity that is pure Sauvignon Blanc. Such ripe fruit stands up well to wood. "Fume" means smoky, and that's the effect of oak barrels that are made of fire-toasted staves. This wine has a huge personality. Pair it with rich seafood and shellfish, or grilled chicken. It's a taste sensation.
